Surfing in the ocean is sublime.
Countless books, magazine articles, blogs and films have been written and produced to try and illustrate the simple beauty of this activity.
Earlier this month I went surfing in Crescent City, California. My surfing experience that day was wholly embodied. The ocean's immense presence filled me up from root to crown. I could barely contain myself.
The swell was large and powerful, coming out of the Northwest - periodic mountains of water steadily moving through the lineup. As they approached, butterflies began careening around in my stomach - anticipating the wide thick band of power, closing in on me. When I was less experienced in the ocean, sights like this would ignite in me something akin to dread. They were large. I was not.
This day I felt excitement and anticipation as they rolled toward me. I clapped for them as they approached— I felt called to do it— applause for the set waves. CLAP CLAP CLAP— arms flapping like a Pelican, water flying from my hands. The big ones. I clapped and threw water in the air -greeting and honoring these immense gifts of surf at the end of their long voyage, having travelled hundreds of miles across the sea, born of hurricane-force winds in the Gulf of Alaska. "NALU! NALU!"
And as they slid under me, or as I paddled furiously to catch one of them I felt their power surge into and through me— into my arms and back as I efforted on my board.
I receive an infusion of Earth Force, a collection of energy from hundreds, even thousands of miles of Ocean. It awakens and enlivens me.
But I don't have to be surfing waves to feel this. It is more obvious in such situations but I receive the Earth Force Infusion if I am simply aware and open in any natural setting. I just need to open my senses, pay attention and be mindful.
Why do I sometimes forget this?